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Paddle to Crag: Lake George Rock Climbing Gets National Exposure

By Mirror Staff

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Adirondack Explorer editor Phil Brown and Associated Press reporter Michael Virtanen not only write about the outdoors, they thrive on it.

The two journalists, who have known each other since second grade and who once worked side by side at the Amsterdam Recorder and the Times Union, have both found beats that allow them to indulge their passions, and they frequently turn their joint expeditions into news reporting.

A recent article by Virtanen about scaling Rogers Slide in July with Brown and Queensbury climber Tom Rosecrans was published in newspapers around the country, including the New York Times.

The story by Virtanen, who has covered Adirondack issues for the Associated Press for decades,  is one of several that have appeared in national newspapers and magazines in recent weeks calling attention to Lake George’s extraordinary recreational resources,

“Lake George’s opportunities for hiking, climbing and paddling are often overlooked,” said Kate Johnson, the director of Warren County’s Tourism Department. “These articles not only help build our brand, they attract new visitors. This is exposure we couldn’t afford if we had to pay for it.”

Rogers Rock, Virtanen wrote, is “the classic paddle-to crag,” a climbing spot that can only be approached by boat.

“Almost a mile of shimmering water stretches east to rolling green mountains, and from a few hundred feet up, much of the 32-mile lake to the south can be seen as the mist burns off and the cliffs get warm. The lake issues a siren call to climbers after they rappel back down,” Virtanen wrote.

“I climbed Rogers Rock once before and told Mike about it; he was anxious to try it,” said Brown, who wrote about his first ascent of Rogers Rock for Adirondack Explorer.

The two recruited Tom Rosencrans, the owner of Rocksport Climbing in Queensbury who Brown says is largely responsible for identifying most of the routes up Rogers Rock and who was the first to climb many of them.

On that day in July, they chose Little Finger, which Virtanen describes as “a five-star route with clean rock and stunning views, is an easy climb that follows a vertical crack for 490 feet as it thins to the width of a pinkie.”

Virtanen writes, “The Little Finger ascent is largely a friction climb up a huge slab of brown-hued rock, a narrow route rubbed clean of lichen and nearly black. The crack provides for easy handholds and allows climbers to insert small spring-loaded devices and thread a safety rope through them.”

He quotes Rosencrans: “Little Finger gets climbed almost every day. The others not so much. If you’re going to come to the area and do just one climb, you’ve got to do it.”

Virtanen didn’t neglect to mention Rogers Rock’s place in American legend, which makes it an even more appealing spot for rock climbers.

“The crag gets its name from Maj. Robert Rogers, a militia commander who legend has it was retreating over the mountain after a losing battle in the winter of 1758 and slid down the cliff to escape or made it look as if he did by going to the edge and then retracing his steps while wearing snowshoes backward.”

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The Truth Behind the Battle on Snowshoes

By George C. Singer

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

The Battle on Snowshoes would appear to need no retelling. Captain (later Major) Robert Rogers with 176 Rangers and 8 volunteers from a British Regiment, left Fort Edward on 10  March, 1758 on what proved to be a momentous “scout.” Traveling on snowshoes and creepers down frozen Lake George, their instructions were to reconnoiter Carillon (Fort Ticonderoga) the southern most French outpost in the northeast.

The French lookout on Mount Pelee, or Bald Mountain, had spotted the advancing column and alerted Montcalm’s troops at Fort Carillon, fatally compromising Rogers’ plan.

On the morning of the 13th his little force came ashore somewhere near the present Rogers Rock Campsite. Moving along Trout Brook where it flows through what is now the Ticonderoga Country Club, the Rangers ambushed the French advance guard, only to be ambushed in turn by the main French party. The battle turned into a rout. As dusk came on,  it was every man for himself. About 45 survivors made it back to Fort Edward. The two British officers surrendered after wandering in the frozen woods for five days and were later exchanged

Francis Parkman’s account of the incident in Montcalm and Wolfe stands unchallenged. Important details were added by Gary Zaboly in American History magazine in  1979 and by Bob Bearor in his 1997 book.

The several versions of Rogers’ miraculous escape came out of the storyteller’s imagination. There is no mention of it in Rogers’ own  Journal which includes a detailed summary of the action.

The earliest account appears to be that of one of General Burgoyne’s officers. Lieut. James Hadden of the Royal regiment of artillery had been detached with 30 men and an artillery train to sail up Lake George and capture Fort George at the head of the Lake. His diary entry for 27 July, 1777 states: “We passed Roger’s Rock famous for his descending a part of it with his Detachment (during the last war) where it appears almost perpendicular. This was his only alternative to falling into the hands of a superior Corps of Savages in the French Interest.  It happened during the winter which no doubt facilitated his descent by flakes of snow &c collected on the Rock as in its present state  one wou’d doubt the fact if not so well authenticated.”

Mary Cochrane Rogers, Rogers’ great-great-granddaughter, wrote in 1917 that he glided down the sheer face on snow shoes over 1000’ to the Lake. Several 19th century accounts recognizing the impossibility of schussing the slide,  invented the explanation that Rogers snow shoed to the top, reversed his snowshoes, carefully retraced  his steps and scrambled down a nearby ravine.

Nevertheless, it was “Rogers’ Rock” in 1776 and it was the same on Sauthier’s famous chorological map published in London in 1779.

But the name was current earlier. Only eight years after the battle, in a land grant petition dated 16 September, 1766, William Friend, retired Sergeant of the Royal Regiment of Foot, petitioned King George “to locate 200 acres on the west side of Lake George on a point of land south of a place called Rogers’s Rock.” Friend’s petition was finally granted in  1771, and he gave his name to Friend’s Point.

Then there was James Scott, retired Private in His Majesty’s 44th Regiment of Foot, Sept 1, 1766 from Ticonderoga, “fifty acres to be situated on a certain point of land on the west side of  Lake George about two miles to the southward of a certain rock called Rodger’s Leep.”

The grant closest to home was George Robertson’s, retired Private of the 22nd regiment of foot. Writing from Crown Point on September 21, 1766, he petitioned for “fifty acres of land to be situated on a certain piece of land lying on the NORTH SIDE (author’s emphasis) of Rogers’s Rock.”  The historic Rogers Rock Club Casino is probably sitting on the land that Private Robinson got as a reward for military service in the French & Indian War.

Eight years after an inconsequential engagement, no part of which took place on  Rogers’ Rock, the name is already being used in official land grant documents.  Such is the power of legend.

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