Table Talk: The Tavern

By Blaze Marshall

Monday, November 28, 2011

The long awaited opening of The Tavern on Aviation Road took place in September. Matt Sokol, Cullen O’Brien, and John Horgan ventured into the restaurant business and as often happens, it took longer than expected. But now that well-populated area west of I-87 has a neighborhood tavern to call its own.

Constant Companion and I waited a couple of weeks to try our area’s newest entry. The first few days evoked comments from friends such as “Jammed,” “Packed,” “Too crowded,” and all the usual expected experiences of a new place. On our visit, on a Tuesday night, The Tavern was less than half full.

One enters through a long hallway, next to a Zumba Fitness center. The walls are covered with old-time photos of the Aviation Road area and there is a long settee for diners-in-waiting. The open bar and dining area is behind this hallway, with the bar centered in the middle of some high-tops, booths along the wall and individual tables.

The obligatory flat-screen TVs are behind the bar and the walls are hung with Red Wing Hockey and some baseball memorabilia. A huge moose head stares down the entire dining and bar area. The bar is finished oak, fronted with half logs and the booths are dark plywood. There is nothing fancy or overdone here. Interestingly, a large steel refrigerator occupies one wall near the bar. You can sense the blood, sweat, tears and capital that the owners put into this “Cheers” type atmosphere.

John Horgan was tending bar and we chatted for a moment before taking a booth along the front wall. Casey, our waitress, presented us with a simple two-page menu while we enjoyed a Stella Artois draft beer.

Two students from Chef Bill Steele’s SUNY Adirondack class were teaming up in the kitchen that is now just serving dinner. The Tavern opened with lunches but wisely cut back almost immediately according to John. Perhaps downtown the lunches would thrive but not on Aviation Road where the largest employer is the Queensbury School District.

The Tavern offers Getcha Goin’ items like chicken wings, beef nachos, mozzarella sticks, Adirondack chili, an Asian trio of pork, turkey and spring rolls as well as choices of grilled thin bread; margherita, ciasto and cebula style with andouille sausage, caramelized onion, spinach and parmesan cheese.

There are two salads; Caesar and Wood Splitter as well as two soups, including a French onion.

Entrees are straightforward American cuisine including a grilled Rueben, a Tanner’s sausage dog topped with chili or cole slaw and a southern style pulled pork featuring Purple Pig bbq sauce, slaw and sweet potato fries.

The Tavern features Sokol’s hand-pressed burgers including Kyle’s major burger with cheddar cheese, onion rings, bacon, lettuce, tomato and bbq sauce. There is also grilled kielbasa with Monterey Jack and tangy gold mustard.

Companion went with one of her constant favorites; a Holly’s Caesar salad with crisp, ice cold romaine, a very good homemade dressing and fresh reggiano parmesan. She topped that with grilled slices of chicken breast and gave it a “Thumbs up.”

I chose a bowl of baked French onion soup that was one of the very best I have ever had. Quite a tribute as I rarely miss an opportunity to have a bowl of French onion. The Tavern’s is very hearty and consists of all fresh ingredients with crispy cheese. I followed this great beginning with a Backwoods Chicken sandwich, an interesting combo of grilled chicken breast, pepper jack cheese, chili, cole slaw and a spicy guacamole sauce. Just a touch of everything on top of a plump chicken breast and it works!

I belatedly received the extra side of sweet potato fries that Companion ordered. However, Casey graciously removed them from our bill.

The Tavern is a no-frills, feel good place that works for a very light, casual dining out experience. The area could use it and I suspect it will become a local hangout to discuss everything from the Adirondack Phantoms to Queensbury politics.

The trio of owners chose not to rush it, hoping to get everything right! A few more additions to the menu, some additional exposure and positive word of mouth will make The Tavern what Sokol’s Market has been for years; a good, reliable, reasonable experience for food buffs, away from those damn chains!

Tags: Blaze Marshall, Food & Drink, Queensbury, Table Talk, The Tavern

Caruso and Facteau

Local Environmental Scientist Pioneers Urban Farm Research

By Adam Winters

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Queensbury High alumnus Erik Facteau grew up surrounded by the dense flora of Lake George and the Adirondacks. Summers camping and hiking around Sleeping Beauty, Shelving Rock and Buck Mountain as well as spending time at his family’s Adirondack farm and cabin on the Saranac River fostered the passion for science that facilitated his academic study of biology.

Today, Facteau and his research partner Tyler Caruso, both recent Master’s of Science graduates of Brooklyn’s Pratt Institute, could be considered environmental scientists of the avante-garde.

Facteau and Caruso are pioneering urban agriculture research that has the potential to facilitate monumental shifts in government policy that would not only mark a new era of sustainability in New York, but could be replicated throughout the country and world.

Their modus operandi is simple. “To create a model for future research that can be replicated anywhere, to help validate and support urban farms.”

They call their project Seeing Green: The Value of Urban Agriculture, “a year-long research project that will measure the storm water management potential of two urban farms” in New York City.

According to the project’s website, “Farms give us a lot more than just produce – They increase food security, decrease food miles traveled, offer healthy and nutritious produce, create green jobs, improve air and water quality, combat Urban Heat Island effect, create habitat for critters, beautify neighborhoods…”

“We know farms are good, but nobody has quantified how good,” according to Facteau, also a graduate of SUNY School of Environmental Science and Forestry in Syracuse. “Government policy is based on metrics, and there are none that look at urban farms’ performativity as green infrastructure.”

Caruso elaborates, “We’re at a critical moment because the city’s DEP [Department of Environmental Protection] has released its green infrastructure plan and while it includes great ‘green’ or non-mechanical ways of dealing with storm water such as planting trees, blue roofs and bioswales, it doesn’t include urban agriculture because there has been no monitoring or data generated.”

Facteau and Caruso will provide numbers where none exist to lend empirical support for urban agriculture as a viable and crucial component of a city’s green infrastructure so that policymakers may draft legislation to offer supportive incentives to building owners while loosening urban farming restrictions.

And the two scientists are happy to discuss why green infrastructure is so important to pursue now.

“[New York City’s] waste water system has a serious systemic problem. It was not designed to handle both septic and storm water runoff, so every time it storms the system gets overwhelmed and over 420 combined sewage pipe outfalls throughout the city release raw, untreated septic waste into its water bodies, creating events called ‘CSO’s [combined sewage overflow],” Caruso says. “Rooftop farms absorb many thousands of gallons of water that would run off and stress the system. Urban farms offer a cost effective and carbon zero storm water solution.”

Cities and towns spend millions of dollars on wastewater and storm water treatment, both in energy and dollars. And in New York City, wastewater treatment accounts for 17% of the city’s greenhouse gas emissions, a staggering figure.

Facteau and Caruso stress how research affects policy.

“Currently in NYC there is a one-time greenroof tax credit that covers some of the installation costs for a greenroof…The language specifies that roofs which require irrigation are ineligible to receive the credit. This means that the credit doesn’t allow for the use of food-producing crops…” according to the project’s website.

According to Facteau, this language is based on a non research-backed speculation that he hopes to disprove through his research with Caruso.

And the two scientists smile when they consider the implications of government policy changing to include food-producing crops on rooftop farms and then replicating across the country and world.

Facteau and Caruso recently wrapped an online fundraising Kickstarter campaign raising over $13,000 to purchase equipment they need to conduct their research. They are also applying for government grants that will allow them to extend that research beyond the initial one-year scope of their Seeing Green project.

Facteau’s ecological research on topics such as plant restoration, mycology and brook trout in and around the Adirondacks while studying at SUNY ESF led him to where he now stands, beaming upon learning that his project has reached the all or nothing threshold of $12,000 to disburse funding to his project with Caruso.

“There is a vibrant community of urban farmers throughout the world without much government help,” Caruso and Facteau agree, “And if we work together to empower our policymakers with data, they will follow our lead and empower us to make all of our communities healthier and better places to live.”

To learn more go to their Kickstarter page

Tags: Adam Winters, Brooklyn, Erik Facteau, Queensbury, Queensbury High School, Tyler Caruso, Urban Agriculture

Table Talk: Jack’s Bistro

By Blaze Marshall

Sunday, May 15, 2011

“Don’t judge a book by its cover!” You’ve all heard that one. Jack’s Bistro hardly even has a cover. A lone glass door, set back in an alcove between two stores is all one can see from busy Upper Glen.

A small unobtrusive free-standing sign as well as a door on the side of a blank wall is hardly noticeable. What was Jack Gates thinking about when he chose this location behind Victory Lane and a vacant storefront?

It could be that he thought his 30 years of experience in the restaurant business, his wife Diane’s decorating talents and two of his sons’ interest to carry on his tradition would prevail. Anyone who frequented the DeSantis’ Howard Johnson’s, the Red Coach Grille or the short-term Seven Steers would know Jack Gates. He worked from the bottom up and developed a reputation as one of the area’s top managers.

So, after a stint in food service at Skidmore, he decided to open his own restaurant, Jack’s American Bistro in June of 2004. The location is certainly on a busy corridor, but it took companions and me some coaxing and searching to seek it out on a blustery Wednesday night.

Opening that side door into a beautiful foyer was totally unexpected. Then through a hostess stand, small party area and into a bar and lounge hardly one would expect.

Cozy, warm, lots of oak and soft lighting immediately makes one feel welcome and surprised. Wanting to soak up more of the atmosphere, the High Command, Mr. Mixologist, and I all chose to have a libation at the bar. Another good choice as Terri introduced herself, gave us a platter of wonderful cheese and crackers and poured our chosen wine in a mini-individual carafe.

She recited from memory all the specials, poured Mr. Mixologist his beer, and pointed out three taps of Cooper’s Cave’s choices. Another favorite local business of mine. Terri never skipped a beat handling a full bar, knowing everyone’s names and serving Yours Truly an appetizer of escargots, heaped inside a toasted bread boullé, swimming in a very rich butter, garlic and white wine sauce. Great presentation.

Jack Gates made a personal appearance at this point, greeting everyone, and introduced his son David, the manager. His other son Christian is the chef! A family-owned Bistro!!

Today’s specials were a chicken with rosemary, Hungarian goulash, pork Ricotta and a fish entrée Corvina. A fish from Costa Rica likened to sea bass, which is currently pricey and endangered.

Bistro specialties on the menu include blackened chicken Oscar, seafood marinara, baked salmon en papiote, a steak au poivre and a herbed rack of lamb.

Jack’s personal favorites are listed as baked brasiola, chicken cordon bleu, roast turkey dinner, pork chops with an apple cream sauce and sautéed calves’ liver and onions. My mama would have been here at least once a week for that one! All entrees come with a house salad, extraordinary hot rolls and olive oil for dipping, fresh veggies and a choice of a daily side dish.

We ordered at the bar and were seated by our waitress, another Terri. Tables are set with linen, nicely spaced, candlelit and amid a dining room adorned with potted trees. Very comfortable, casual and totally unexpected behind that green door!

High Command opted for a chicken cordon bleu that was a full boneless breast rolled and stuffed with ham and Swiss cheese, baked and served atop a nice Honey-Dijon sauce to kick it up a notch.

Mr. Mixologist chose pork tenderloin sliced on the bias accompanied by an orange-glace sauce.

I went with one of Jack’s specialties; a honey-lime shrimp. Six large shrimp marinated in honey and lime and finished with a Cilantro lime butter. They were served in a crudite and had just enough sauce to not overpower. The menu said “baked” but they were nicely barbequed and scored a hit with Yours Truly.

All entrees were accompanied by a house salad of mixed greens, tomatoes, cukes, onions, peppers, garlic croutons and real chopped bacon. Some great red-smashed garlic potatoes and butternut squash completed our meals.

We had to pass on desserts, although the bistro offers a peach melba, banana’s Foster for two, tiramisu and tonight a bread pudding with vanilla cream sauce.

The menu states simply that a bistro by definition is a small restaurant or tavern specializing in modest, down to earth food. This place does all that and more.

My understanding is that on Fridays their happy hour is one of the best. No wonder, as I would rank Terri’s enthusiasm, proficiency and friendliness right up there in the top five mixologists award. And I had one of them with me!!

Take time to seek out Jack Gates’ bistro. Park on the side and enter through the green door. Take time to enjoy the atmosphere and the food.

This book doesn’t even need a cover!

Tags: Blaze Marshall, Food & Drink, Jack's Bistro, Lake George Dining, Queensbury, Restaurants, Table Talk

Martha's had been family owned for over 50 years

Family Flavor Returns to Iconic Ice Cream Stand

By Mirror Staff

Saturday, May 7, 2011

For ten years, Martha’s Dandee Cream was owned by Six Flags, until recently one of the world’s largest owners and operators of amusement parks.

Tourists may not have known there was any difference between the ice cream sold by employees of a multi-national corporation and the cones served by the Freibergers and the Lafontaines, the two families who owned the stand from the 1930s through 1999.

Locals and long-time visitors, however, were acutely aware of the differences.

Gone were the days when their favorite flavor of ice cream was already in a dish or cone by the time they reached the front of the line. For any number of other reasons, things just weren’t the same.

But now things are indeed just the same. Beth and Dennis LaFontaine purchased Martha’s from Six Flags, putting the ice cream stand back into the hands of the family that owned it for almost two decades.

“This is where I’m comfortable,” says Dennis, who helped run the business from the day he graduated from high school to the day it was sold. “I love the interaction with people.”

The diner where Lafontaine once served 500 breakfasts a day (and where he wore a groove in the linoleum frying eggs), has yet to re-open, but it will sometime soon, perhaps by next summer.

“Our first objective was to get the ice cream business back on its feet,” Dennis says.

That’s an objective that has been met, he said.

“It’s been a phenomenal year, despite the fact that we had two of the rainiest months in history,” he said. NBC’s decision to feature the ice cream stand on the Today Show certainly helped, said Beth LaFontaine.

“Sarah Gore, an NBC host and contributor, is from Queensbury, and she’s a big fan of Martha’s,” said LaFontaine. “She was asked to list her favorite places in the Lake George area, and Martha’s was first on the list.”

According to Dennis LaFontaine, the appearance on the Today Show has attracted new customers from throughout New England and the Capital District. That burst of renewed attention may help the LaFontaines with their latest project: selling ice cream cakes in local supermarkets.

Those locally-made favorites are now available at Hannaford’s, LaFontaine said. And the ice cream stand will be open longer this year so that local residents will be able to enjoy their favorite flavors even after summer is over.

Tags: Ice Cream, Local Business, Local Economy, Martha's Dandee Cream, Queensbury, Six Flags

Photo: www.greatupstateboatshow.com

Great Upstate Boat Show Opens Friday, March 25

By Buzz Lamb

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

In this day and age, friends and family are pulled in all directions. Work, errands and after-school activities create frenzied schedules that tend to get in the way of quality family time. But, there is one place where all of this comes to a halt and tranquility reigns…on a boat!

According to Roger Phinney, Executive Director of the Eastern New York Marine Trades Association (ENYMTA), the 2011 Great Upstate Boat Show will be presented at the 98,000 square foot Adirondack Sports Complex (the Dome) in Queensbury on March 25, 26, & 27.

“This year we will have 25 dealers exhibiting over 60 different boat brands with 200 boats on display,” Phinney said. “It’s the largest boat show between New York and Montreal.”

Whether cruising the open waterways, participating in watersports, fishing or stopping to enjoy the unparalleled beauty of the surroundings, sharing quality time on the water with family and friends brings people closer and creates memories that last a lifetime. The 2011 Great Upstate Boat Show aims to offer a glimpse of just how wonderful the boating lifestyle can be.

According to Phinney, visitors to the show will get a rare opportunity to compare boat brands side-by-side at competitive bargain pricing. “There will be a wide array of models on display that boaters of all ages can enjoy,” Phinney said.

“Whether you’re interested in watersports, finding a prize catch or just cruising around, there’s a boat for every budget and lifestyle. This show provides people with the area’s largest selection of boats and dealers, making it easier to gather information to put together the right decision for you and your family,” said Phinney.

Phinney said visitors will be able to check out popular models of pontoons, cruisers, cuttys, fishing boats, ski boats, PWCs and more all lined up inside the Dome. For those looking for a pre-owned boat, the show will also have a “Pre-Owned Pavilion” with a broad selection of quality models for sale at great prices.

You’ll also find one-of-a-kind deals and options for on-site financing when you’re ready to buy. As an added show bonus, serious shoppers can take advantage of the “Sign & Save 2% Sale.” Finalize your purchase at the show and the dealer will give an additional two percent off the show price.

According to Phinney, throughout the weekend there will be events for all ages including a free New York State Boating Course, kid’s fishing seminars and a chance to win a Verizon iPad. “Visitors can also find great deals on things ranging from docks & boat hoists to boat canvas, to items in a water sports boutique,” Phinney added.

“A new feature will be a Red Carpet Showcase Area where displays of marine innovations, old and new, will feature vintage boats and antique motors as well as a 34-foot off-shore raceboat and a state-of-the art hydraulic swim platform introduced by Cobalt Boats,” Phinney said.

Admission is $8 (discount coupons on show website), children 12 and under are free. The Dome is located at 325 Sherman Ave., Queensbury, seven minutes from Northway Exit 18. Parking is free. For more information and seminar schedules, visit www.greatupstateboatshow.com or call 518-791-0070.

Tags: Adirondack Sports Complex, Eastern New York Marine Trades Association, Great Upstate Boat Show, Lake George Boating, Queensbury, Queensbury Attractions, Roger Phinney

Table Talk: Bistro LeRoux

By Blaze Marshall

Thursday, February 24, 2011

This past Summer, another magnificent gemstone was added to our regions tiara of fine dining establishments. Bistro LeRoux opened on Route 149 at the site of the former Bayberry Corners and Cherry Tomato. Jacob Guay, a 1997 native of Fort Ann, and his wife Tiffany came back from several experiences at fine dining establishments in the west, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, and struck out on their own.

The former owners, also of the Ripe Tomato in Saratoga had to scale back and were very particular to whom they passed their skillet to. After checking out the Guay’s credentials and meeting Jacob’s mom and dad; Bob and Elaine, the deal was sealed in less than five minutes.

Jacob had truly been a vagabond cook and Bob’s proudest moment was when he could announce to Elaine “Your baby’s coming home.” And home is behind the open kitchen just as you enter this very classy, friendly, casual eatery on the corner of Bay Road and Route 149.

The exterior has been brightened up with yellow and white stripes, window awnings, and a newly paved parking area. The minute you walk in the door you sense a feeling of shear pleasure; a cozy bar and a small lounge, smiling faces on the wait staff, neat black uniforms impeccable from head to toe. You know you are in a special place for certain and you haven’t even tried the food.

Our party of five ambled to the bar, met Stefa, who had preceded the Guay’s at this location and was led to our table at our exact reserved time, even though the dining areas were filled to capacity.

There are two separate dining rooms, one with cozy booths and another with open tables called “The Park Room.” This dining area is adorned with beautiful photos of the many national parks that the Guay’s have visited in their travels. Indirect lighting, imitation grapevines and tables complimented with fresh flowers, all add to the comfortable yet classy atmosphere.

Chef Jacob’s menu features both half and full orders, classified as small and large. I rate both adequate to size and price and suggest you let your appetite direct you to your portion choice.

For starters there is a roasted tomato and cognac bisque and a French onion soup. Baked brie, crab cakes, toasted goat cheese, shrimp cocktail or an andouille sausage and fennel ravioli with oyster mushrooms and wilted arugula are also options to begin your meal.

A lavish selection of salads includes a Caprese with fresh tomato, seasoned mozzarella and basil. Additional salads include a very different caesar cobb, stuffed poached pear and a curly beet. More about those later. You can add steak, chicken or salmon to any of these offerings.

Entrees keep the taste buds flowing with a Black Angus burger with smoked gouda, tobacco onions, lettuce and tomato on a toasted potato bun with gruyere fries. There is also grilled salmon, an apple braised chicken waldorf, BBQ seitan lettuce wraps with grilled pineapple, candied walnuts and blue cheese and a grilled bone-in pork chop with hot fruit salsa.

Our waitress Diana delivered a basket of excellent sourdough bread and a young man poured tall glasses of ice water almost immediately.

Jerry the Good opened with a poached pear salad stuffed with mascarpone cheese, candied walnuts, cherries, spinach and doused with vanilla fig vinaigrette. What a combo, what a salad!

Bistro LeRoux, at the intersection of Bay and Rt. 149

Yours Truly as well as Penn State Mom, went with a curly beet salad. Curly strips of fresh beets and arugula, crispy prosciutto, blue cheese and toasted almonds anointed with black berry brandy balsamic vinaigrette dressing. Another hit! I chose the small portion yet wished for more.

NASCAR Nut began with his usual French onion soup with melted provolone as well as the caesar cobb salad. The crispy romaine was there but at Bistro LeRoux, so was diced hard boiled egg, red onion and roasted tomato in a balsamic creamy lemon caesar dressing. It was topped with a basil pesto crostini slice.

Miss Picky Eater and her spouse are both beef lovers and it came as no surprise they went for a New York strip and grilled ribeye respectively. The ribeye was lightly marbled, fork tender and came with the house signature demi-glace; a rosemary cabernet combination that kicks this cut up more than a notch.

The New York strip was grilled to perfection, consisted of a warm red center, charred outside and was topped with brandied chipoline onions. This entrée also included garlic herb mashed potatoes that contained roasted bits of fresh corn kernels. Yet another interesting combo that truly works to please the palate.

Jerry the Good latched on to the veal osso bucco that arrived with some wonderful creamy parmesan polenta and broccolini.

I enjoyed six crab stuffed jumbo shrimp with bits of chorizo sausage sautéed in garlic and white wine and tossed in a delectable shallot mornay sauce.

Penn State Mom’s grilled salmon was finished in a grand marnier bur Blanc and came with a very interesting grilled onion stuffed avocado.

I will state here that the portion choices are accurate. Small is small and not for the diner who is famished. The prices however, are very fair for the quantity, quality and presentation of each platter. The other good news is that Bistro LeRoux’s portion choices allow you to leave room for some wonderful desserts.

They are headlined by the house- made raspberry and candied ginger cobbler served with a scoop of delicious vanilla bean ice cream. We five also split a caramel apple pie, tiramisu of coffee and Marsala dipped lady fingers and a great, creamy New York style cheese cake. We all got a scoop of that delicious ice cream. The desserts come from Sweet Street Desserts in Reading, PA. Well worth the trip!

After dinner, we decided to stop at the bar where we chatted with Bob Guay, the proud father of Chef Jacob. He and his wife Elaine were all over the restaurant on our visit, cleaning tables, checking on orders, greeting customers and now speaking with us. The pride, care and devotion shows through in their manner and speech.

Bistro LeRoux was suggested to me by a reader of my column whom I greatly respect. He was right! Like so many other longtime restaurants that have been successful in our area because of family involvement, this one can not miss.

While the combinations might sound too gourmet for some, it is not!! It is first class, creative culinary art offered by a caring, unpretentious family in a very friendly, warm and casual atmosphere.

Tags: Bistro LeRoux, Blaze Marshall, Bob Guay, Chef Jacob Guay, Elaine Guay, Food & Drink, Lake George Dining, Lake George Restaurants, Queensbury, Table Talk

Lakes to Locks “Minute” Looks at Story Town

By Mirror Staff

Sunday, February 20, 2011

According to Laura Rice, a curator at the Adirondack Museum in Blue Mountain Lake, roadside attractions like Story Town, “are now recognized as integral to the development of the Adirondack Park as a resort area in the 1950s.” Lakes to Locks Passage, the organization that emphasizes “place-based” tourism, or an appreciation of a community’s unique historical, cultural and natural resources, has made a one minute video about Story Town, considered one of the first, and most important, of those roadside attractions.