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The Hancock House is an art gallery

The Hancock House is an art gallery

Daytrips: The Other Ticonderoga

By Patricia & Robert Foulke

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Decades ago Lowell, Massachusetts remained a dormant relic of its once prosperous industrial past.  Not until the city fathers began to tap into that past did the tourist industry pay much attention to industrial history.  Now you can appreciate  another 19th-century industrial powerhouse on a smaller scale nearby.  Ticonderoga’s museums tell the story of its heyday as a manufacturing center, with rapid growth and prosperity through the second half of the 19th century.  So there’s more to enjoy in the Ticonderoga area besides the fort.

The strategic military fort of the 18th century controlled the shortest portage to Lake George.  The 220-foot drop of the LaChute river in three miles which made the portage necessary created the falls and rapids that later fueled Ticonderoga’s industrial growth.  Lumbering and mining in the Adirondacks fed Ticonderoga’s sawmills and later its two seminal industries, paper and graphite.  (Remember those Ticonderoga pencils that school kids all over the country used?)  Other industries burgeoned around this compact source of water power, including wool and cotton mills, machine works, and a variety of  manufacturing plants.

Penfield Homestead

Did you know that the tiny hamlet of Ironville claims to be the “Birthplace of the Electric Age?” In fact, the first known industrial application of electricity in the country took place here.  As you tour the house you will come to a large shed and a surprise–a replica of a large electromagnet.  Allen Penfield bought the original, now housed in the Smithsonian, from its inventor, Joseph Henry, to use in the ironworks in 1831.  Iron mine owners had a problem separating even rich iron particles from the ore.  Joseph Henry was able to create a powerful electromagnet, and it could more efficiently remagnetize the smaller magnets mounted on cylinders to attract the iron particles.

The attractive facade of the Penfield Homestead has a wraparound porch.  The building was originally an inn with a tap room dating from 1826.  Allen and Anna Penfield moved in with their children in 1828.  For forty years Allan ran the mining business from a home office, and as you enter the house you’ll see his desk.  The parlor is furnished with some family pieces and others typical of the 19th century. We marveled at the large collection of family bibles in a glass case in the former dining room, important because they record births, marriages and deaths of generations on their flyleaves.  A large quilt made by local women shows details of life in Ironville, once a burgeoning village. The kitchen also served as a family room where people spent most of their time.  A Rumford fireplace kept them warm.

The shed is large and includes the ice house.  Collections there include wringer washing machines, irons, a lathe run by peddling feet and finally–the Electromagnet with a description on the wall beside it. We took time to look through a collection of Seneca Ray Stoddard photographs of the mines, locomotives, a kiln, tracks and trestles, and a blast furnace. Iron from here not only provided iron plates for the U.S.S. Monitor but also cable for the Brooklyn Bridge.  It was nice to see the photographs because the mine shafts are in ruins and no one is allowed in the area.

Upstairs Annie Penfield lived in her bedroom until her death in 1954.  The nursery has a collection of toys, a rocking horse and doll carriage.  Another room has displays from the Civil War, including discharge papers and information about the 100 Morgan horses used by the cavalry unit from this area..

Take a look in the carriage barn behind the house. It contains a Crown Point hearse with an ice box to keep the body cool, a one-horse open roadster, and an 1884 treadmill powered by large dogs. The Penfield carriage is there as well as a carriage jack for changing a wheel.

Information:

The Penfield Homestead Museum ,County Rt. 2, 518-597-3804, www.penfieldmuseum.org. Open June-October, Thursday-Sunday 11-4.

Directions: From I87 take exit 28 to Route 74E and drive on a pretty winding road for 15 miles past Paradox and Eagle lakes to the Corduroy Road on your left. Follow around Penfield Pond into Ironville, about 3 miles. The Penfield Homestead Museum is on your left. Distance from Lake George Village: 51 miles.

Summer 2007 Event: August 19, Annual Heritage Day–Pony rides, games, craft fair, BBQ, flea market, lectures, historical demonstrations

October 7, 2007: Applefolkfest–chili, hot dogs, fresh donuts, apple desserts from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Craft fair and flea market at 10:00 a.m.

After your visit drive back to Rt. 74, turn left and enjoy the panoramic view as you head down the long hill into Ticonderoga.

Hancock House

This house is a replica of Thomas Hancock’s house on Beacon Street in Boston between 1737 and 1863. (He was an uncle to John Hancock, who later lived there.) It was home to Horace Augustus Moses, who owned the Strathmore Paper Company.  Now it houses a regional museum, fine art gallery and research library. Furnishings and exhibits date from the 1700s to the present and focus on Lake Champlain, Lake George and the Adirondacks.

Period furnishings include 18th and 19th century Duncan Phyfe and Chippendale pieces as well as colonial-era furniture.  In the drawing room the painting over the fireplace depicts “Death of Wolf-Plains of Abraham before the City of Quebec, 1759.”  On the second floor landing the clock belonged to “Diamond Jim” Brady, a financier who was seldom seen without his signature diamonds.

The exhibit room is chock full of some of the vessels bearing the name “Ticonderoga,” including a photograph of Stephanie Pell christening the aircraft carrier “U.S.S. Ticonderoga” in 1944.  The schooner “Ticonderoga” was in the Battle of Plattsburgh in 1814. The sloop “Ticonderoga” appears in an engraving as she leaves for the African coast in 1862. The 1906 steamboat is now in the Shelburne Museum. There’s also the Captain’s Chair from the “U.S.S. Ticonderoga,” decommissioned in 2004.

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The Saratoga Auto Museum is in Spa State Park

The Saratoga Auto Museum is in Spa State Park

Day Trips: Saratoga Automoble Museum

By Patricia & Robert Foulke

Monday, January 3, 2011

Americans have always jumped at opportunities for sudden wealth, never mind the risks. That drive to make it big in a hurry dates back to the fur trade in the colonial era and recurred as recently as the dot.com explosion at the turn of the 21st century. In between flows an endless stream–grabbing land from Indians in the 17th and 18th centuries, building canals, then replacing them with railroads, a series of gold rushes in the West, mining coal and smelting steel, all in the 19th century.  At the beginning of the 20th century, before airplanes grew out of bicycles into their dominant shapes, the big opportunity was automobiles.

A century later we are still in their thrall, sometimes reluctantly, even though making automobiles is no longer a bonanza. But in the first decades of the 20th century small start-up automobile companies multiplied in garages just as computer start-ups did in the last decades.  In New York alone, it is estimated that 700 to 900 infant companies tried to build cars even though only about 200 ever produced a prototype and fewer stayed in business.  Among those that did were the Pierce Arrow and Thomas Flyer in Buffalo, the Cunningham in Rochester, the Franklin in Syracuse and the Lozier in Plattsburgh.

Now we have a museum close at hand to tell that story, and it has been doing so with style since 2002. Housed in the restored and renovated 1934 Saratoga Bottling Plant on the grounds of the 2,500 acre Saratoga Spa State Park, the Saratoga Automobile Museum is a non- profit chartered by the Board of Regents of the State of New York Department of Education. Its mission is “to preserve, interpret and exhibit automobiles” and to “celebrate the automobile and educate the general public, students and enthusiasts” on the wider role of the automobile in American and world culture. In short, to document our love affair with fine cars and all they represent–freedom to move about the land at will, engineering precision, power, speed, style and, for some, a symbol of affluence.

The building itself is handsome, rising two stories in neo-classic style with large Palladian windows.  The museum takes pride in displaying cars, trucks and other vehicles from the heritage of New York, Detroit, Europe and Asia. Exhibits on the main floor gallery space change every four months, while the permanent exhibits fill the floor above. The museum provides a full schedule of workshops, lectures and outdoor shows, as well as a meeting place for the 70 car clubs in the Capital Region. It provides outreach programs for students in grades K through 12, and we have heard about the tremendous fun Girls Scouts had on overnights in the building. Besides the excitement of a slumber party in this setting, the girls may even learn how to change a tire!

As we moved onto the main gallery floor several weeks ago, the current Cadillac exhibition on loan from the General Motors Heritage Collection was a virtual automotive style show.  Remember the towering tailfins of the late 1950s? By 1959 Cadillac had reached its high-water mark in the Eldorado Biarritz. And there’s one on display in flamboyant red. You can see this fine show until November 2.

For over one hundred years Cadillac has continued to develop the latest technological features and achieve stylistic excellence n its cars. Begin with the 1902 Runabout Prototype in jewel-tone red, as if it came from Tiffany’s. Next is the 1915 Type 51 V-8 Touring Car in stunning black.  Back then you could order the 5 or the 7-passenger version. The spokes on the wheels are varnished.

The 1920 Type 59 Sedan by Don Lee Coachwork is a custom design. The model was finished in Washington Blue, a lovely cobalt color. It has a triangular windshield and  beveled oval glass rear windows. Buyers could order an optional Westinghouse Air Spring Suspension System.

The 1931 V-16 Phaeton was popularized by Babe Ruth and Marlena Dietrich, among others. It has a 148 inch wheelbase and the body is by Fleetwood. The spare tires are mounted on the sides of the body. Don’t miss seeing the speedometer and clock mounted for back-seat drivers–a perfect mother-in-law vehicle.

Nicola Bulgari, of jewelry fame, owned a 1941 Series 62 Coupe. The price of the new Coupe DeLuxe was $1,510 and the car weighed 3,970 pounds. The 1976 Eldorado Convertible has a 126.3 inch wheelbase. Cadillac called this car “the last of a magnificent breed.”

Briggs S. Cunningham decided to compete at the 24-Hours of Le Mans with an American car. He built the 1950 Series 61 Le Mans Racer which is on display. You’ll also see the 2003 Cadillac CTS-VR  raced at Sebring International Raceway, a  car with enough power to win repeatedly..

The star of the show is CadZZilla Billy F. Gibbons, ordered by the ZZ Top guitar maestro  in 1988. He wanted “a four-wheel reflection of the group’s music, that’s now using 50′s technologies, combined with current recording techniques, to produce a richer sound.” This is the only car we were not allowed to photograph so you will have to go to see it.

After the Cadillac exhibit closes on November 2 get ready for The Sichel Collection which is a view of the pre-WWI brass era. You will see a Stanley Steamer, an early Model T, a Rambler and more.

Head upstairs to see the permanent collection. We were intrigued with the 1928 Franklin Airman Sedan which is very special because it belonged to Charles A. Lindbergh.  In 1927 he was the first to fly nonstop across the Atlantic from New York City to Paris in 33 hours. His monoplane, “Spirit of St. Louis” (sponsored by the Bixby family of St. Louis and Bolton Landing) had an air-cooled engine, which led to an intriguing connection with automobiles.

The H.H. Franklin Company, later the Franklin Automobile Company, of Syracuse used air-cooled engines in its cars. The company promoted its air-cooled cars, calling the new series the airman “to honor the courage and vision of Colonial Lindbergh.” They gave Lindbergh one of the first models off of the line.

Lindbergh courted Anne Morrow, who later became his wife, in his new Airman. By 1933 he had retired his Franklin. When Henry Ford let it be known that he wanted a Franklin for his Museum Lindbergh donated his car. Then he drove it alone in August 1940 from his home in Englewood, NJ overnight to Detroit, where he gave it to Ford. Lindbergh was not sleepy as he drove through the night but said he became sleepy “as the first streaks of dawn lightened the eastern sky.” He assumed that “daybreak would have the same effect on me while driving a car as it has when I am flying a plane.”

This LaFrance Grey sedan cost $2,790 in 1928. It has six cylinders, an air-cooled engine and four-wheel hydraulic brakes. What a machine!

Other cars upstairs include a 1931 Pierce-Arrow, a 1903 Weebermobile, a 1910 Maxwell, a 1956 Ferrari, a 1935 Maserati, a 1936 Vanderbilt and a 1948 race car that George Weaver used to win a remarkable string of victories at Watkins Glen from 1948-1955.

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